Antonia Rogers - Stylist at Garbo's Salon and Spa, Village Pointe

By: Antonia Rodgers

Why undercutting? 

Haircuts, as we know, are essential to maintaining the length and the shape of a style we find that accentuates our personality and bone structure.

There are many reasons why the individual nature of our hair will make a preferred cut and style difficult. Thankfully, there are some ways around that.

If you find trouble with manageability, whether it be drying time, thickness or controlling curl and unruly hairlines, there is a cutting technique that may be for you.  An avenue that can give the desired style a foundation to allow the cut to come to life… 

This can be done by strategically undercutting the hair. This is using an undercut as a utility for function to achieve form rather than for aesthetics. It may be visually extinguished or distinguished by your hair color choice. This can also make the technique much more approachable if your professional environment maintains a more conservative policy.

Undercutting - Antonia's First Step
Undercutting - Omaha Hairstylist, Antonia Rogers of Garbo's Salon and Spa
Undercutting - The Finished Look

Reason #1 

The two most common reasons I will take this approach is first and most often, to manage thickness. This is the most obvious advantage to undercutting the hair. The drying and styling time is drastically reduced along with a more comfortable weight within the hair. It can be done very aggressively with clippers (to take the hair very close to the scalp as seen with most of the trending cuts over the last few years) but often when I use undercutting for this purpose in function, that is not necessary.  Depending on the texture of hair and length of the desired style, the undercut can be only half the length shorter to achieve the function needed. Typically, the undercutting will start at the nape and, depending on the severity of thickness, it can be taken all the way to just above the occipital and into the sides above the ears.  With that, the cut is allowed to move and your overall look is more balanced and manageable. Just what we want!

Reason #2

The second reason I will utilize an undercut is for troublesome hairlines. Those of you who have one know what I mean. It can cause having a great, new shoulder-length bob a constant battle every time you style. That hairline may produce one side to flip or pop out while the other side is perfectly behaved, creating an unwanted silhouette and constant frustration.  Typically what’s going on is, at the bottom edge of the hairline, the growth pattern on either corner of the nape can cause the hair to kick out, ruining even your best hair day. By cutting that growth pattern down, which is technically referred to as a whirl, it will collapse the growth pattern causing the problem in the first place and allow the longer hair to lie gracefully on top as it should and voila…. you can have your desired shape day in and day out. Again, it doesn’t have to be cut down to the scalp.  It can be gently whittled down and softened enough that it will allow a graceful grow out between cuts and remains very approachable to anyone.

Rather than just remedying through endless frustration when styling, undercutting can allow you to take control of your hair destiny, in that you can finally eliminate the problem of too much hair or rebellious hair lines forever!

Sending love,

Antonia

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